1. Change the pilot bearing.
2. Break the clutch in according to the instructions provided.
3. Ensure proper bellhousing alignment.
4. Resurface the flywheel. This is a critical step to guard against clutch chatter/shudder. We recommend a very coarse surface texture from a stone grinder. Something that if you ran your finger nail across the flywheel, the texture would catch your nail.
5. Inspect the entire clutch system including hydraulics and linkage. Replacement of the Hydraulic slave with an OEM replacement is critical.

1. A Single disc application is installed with the completely flat side facing the flywheel. The protruding side of the hub (side with springs) assembly will face up towards the pressure plate ( in most cases)
2. A Double disc unit will have both hubs with the protruding side of the hub face up towards pressure plate and towards the transmission. (in most cases)

Yes. The pins help to ensure proper alignment of the pressure plate and add strength.

The biggest factors in clutch life are the way it is used and the output of the engine. McLeod Clutches are designed for maximum life but that life can be shortened by using much stickier tires than stock, stop and go driving, track use, tires of larger diameter and other factors that place added stress on the clutch.

We would like to see 500-750 miles of stop & go city driving. With no drag racing or dyno tuning. Make sure to drive in stop & go city driving to actuate the clutch 1200 to 1500 times. You can drive the car 600 miles on the interstate and only shift the car 5 or 6 times and not break in the clutch.

1. Oil or grease on the clutch facings.
2. Worn or damaged clutch linkage, leaf springs, bushings, mounts, u-joints, CV joints, engine mounts, transmission mounts.
3. A flywheel that has not been resurfaced properly, has hot spots, has excessive run-out and or incorrect flywheel step.
4. Pressure plate or disc that is bent.
5. Defective pressure plate and or disc.
6. An engine that is not tuned properly.
7. A disc that either lacks enough marcel or has no marcel at all.

1. Clutch disc binding on input shaft.
2. Worn or damaged or improperly adjusted clutch linkage.
3. Improperly bled or faulty hydraulics.
4. Flywheel improperly surfaced, machined too thin or not resurfaced before new clutch was installed.
5. Damaged or bent pressure plate and or disc.
6. Clutch disc hub hitting the flywheel bolts.
7. Improper clutch disc thickness.
8. Bent input shaft.

1. Shifter installed improperly or shifter linkage improper adjusted or damaged.
2. Misaligned bellhousing.
3. Wrong fluid type used in transmission.
4. Worn transmission parts i.e. synchro gears and/or bent shift fork.
5. Pilot bushing worn or binding on input shaft

1. A clutch assembly that is worn or failing.
2. Oil or grease on friction surfaces.
3. A clutch that is not designed to hold the amount of power the being made.
4. A clutch not design for the type of driving being done i.e. using a clutch designed for the street at the track.
5. Improper clutch adjustment, bearing free play.

Yes, we recommend you balance your new clutch at a local machine shop, or you can contact us as we do offer a balancing service as well.
Give us a call at (714) 630-2764.